Ievgeniia (Jenya) Serikivna Kazbekova (Ukrainian: Євгенія Серіківна Казбекова, born 15 October 1996) is a Ukrainian competition climber. She is a two-time European Championships silver medallist and competed in the women's combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.[1]
 Kazbekova at the 2017 Munich Bouldering World Cup | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Born | 15 October 1996 Dnipropetrovsk, Ukraine | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Medal record
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Family and early life
editKazbekova was born in 1996 in Dnipro.[2] Her grandparents were climbers; her grandmother won the championship of the Soviet Union in a competition in Crimea, the same place where her parents, Serik Kazbekov and Natalia Perlova, met and later owned a hotel. Perlova herself was a competition climber, the Ukrainian champion,[1] and the 2002 overall bouldering world cup winner.[3] Her father won a silver medal in speed climbing at the 1993 UIAA Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria.[4] Her parents regularly brought Kazbekova to competitions with them,[5] and Perlova recalls Kazbekova already scrambling on the rocks of Crimea at the age of seven months, on family climbing trips there.[6]
In early 2022, due to the Russian invasion of Ukraine escalating the ongoing Russo-Ukrainian War, Kazbekova, her parents, and younger sister Rafael Kazbekova (herself a competition climber) fled Kyiv for Germany. She has continued to be a prominent and staunch advocate for Ukrainian interests in the climbing world. In part in response to her efforts, in 2022, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) cancelled several events scheduled to be held in Russia, and suspended all Russian athletes from their competitions.[7] Kazbekova's family later moved to Manchester, England. As of 2024[update], Kazbekova is primarily based in Salt Lake City in the US, where the US climbing team trains.[1][8]
Climbing career
editAs of 2024[update], Kazbekova's highest-level international competition climbing result is 2nd place in bouldering and lead at the 2024 IFSC Climbing European Championships.[9] She is a twelve time Ukrainian National Champion in Sport Climbing and Bouldering from 2012 to 2024.[2] Outdoors, she redpointed her first 7a+ (5.12a) graded sport climbing route at age eight, and her first 8a (5.13b) graded route at age 11.[6] At age 13, she climbed 8b+ "Parallel’niy mir" in Crimea.[10] She has climbed the 8A+ (V12) graded bouldering problem called Partage in Fontainebleu in France, the 8c+ (5.14c) sport climbing route Pati Naso in Siurana in Spain,[2] and the 8c+ (5.14c) graded sport route Güllich at the Redstone crag in Crimea (and as the first female free ascent) in 2017.[11]
Kazbekova was one of the contenders for a place in sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics, but fell short after a knee injury and illness prevented her from showing her best.[1][8] Through competing in the 2024 Olympic Qualifier Series in Shanghai and Budapest, Kazbekova came in 6th place out of the top 48 women competing in the series to gain a spot at the sport climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics.[8] At the Olympics, she placed 14th in both the bouldering and lead semifinals of the combined event.[12][13] Kazbekova won the silver medal in the lead and the combined event at the 2024 European Championships in Villars.[14]
References
edit- ^ a b c d Berry, Natalie (28 May 2024), "'The world didn't care enough': Ukrainian climber's journey from Crimea to Olympic chance", The Guardian, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ a b c "Jenya Kazbekova", Edelrid athletes, Edelrid, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ "Core and Perlova win the Bouldering World Cup 2002", Planet Mountain, 23 October 2002, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ "Result: MEN speed", UIAA World Championship - Innsbruck 1993, Digital Rock, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ "Ievgeniia Kazbekova: "Climbing taught me to be brave, and to know that fear is OK"", Olympics.com, International Olympic Committee, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ a b Virt, Jan (29 July 2020), "Jenya Kazbekova - A Climbing Heritage", UK Climbing, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ Walker, Noah (2 March 2022), "IFSC Suspends All Russian Competition, Athletes and Officials; Russian Professional Climber Vadim Timinov and Ukrainian World Cup climber Jenya Kazbekova speak out against Russian invasion", Gripped, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ a b c "Rappeler que l'Ukraine est là" : Jenya Kazbekova, de la Crimée à Paris 2024 (in French), France 24, 9 July 2024, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ "Ievgeniia Kazbekova", Athlete profiles, International Federation of Sport Climbing, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ https://kazbekova.com.ua/en/achievements/
- ^ Pohl, Björn (21 September 2017), "Jenya Kazbekova climbs Güllich, 8c+", UK Climbing, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ "Women's Boulder & Lead, Semifinal Boulder Results", retrieved 9 August 2024
- ^ "Women's Boulder & Lead, Semifinal Lead Results", Olympics.com, International Olympic Committee, 8 August 2024
- ^ Vettoretti, Marco (2 September 2024), "Italy, France seal European Championships Villars 2024 with golden finale", International Federation of Sport Climbing, retrieved 12 October 2024