have been preserved in cold storage, but it is only within a recent period, owing to the difficulty there was in obtaining the necessary perfectly dry atmosphere, that dressed and made-up furs have been preserved by freezing. Furs kept in such a condition are not only immune from the ravages of the larvae of moth, but all the natural oils in the pelt and fur are conserved, so that its colour and life are prolonged, and the natural deterioration is arrested. Sunlight has a tendency to bleach furs and to encourage the development of moth eggs, therefore continued exposure is to be avoided. When furs are wetted by rain they should be well shaken and allowed to dry in a current of air without exposure to sun or open fire.
Where a freezing store for furs is not accessible, furs should be well shaken and afterwards packed in linen and kept in a perfectly cool dry place, and examined in the summer at periods of not less than five weeks. Naphthalene and the usual malodorous powders are not only very disagreeable, but quite useless. Any chemical that is strong enough to destroy the life in a moth egg would also be sufficiently potent to injure the fur itself. In England moth life is practically continuous all the year round, that is, as regards those moths that attack furs, though the destructive element exists to a far greater extent during spring and summer.
Comparative Durability of Various Furs and Weight of Unlined
Skins per Square Foot.
The following estimates of durability refer to the use of fur when made up “hair outside” in garments or stoles, not as a lining. The durability of fur used as linings, which is affected by other conditions, is set forth separately. Otter, with its water hairs removed, the strongest of furs for external use, is, in this table, taken as the standard at 100 and other furs marked accordingly:—
The Precious Furs.
| Points of Durability. | [1]Weight in oz. per sq. ft. | |
| Sable | 60 | 212 |
| Sea | 75 | 3 |
| Fox, Silver or Black | 40 | 3 |
| Fox, White | 20 | 3 |
| Ermine | 25 | 114 |
| Chinchilla | 15 | 112 |
| Sea-otter (for stoles or collars) | 100 | 414 |
The Less Valuable Furs.
| Points of Durability. | Weight in oz. per sq. ft. | |
| Sable “topped,” i.e. top hairs coloured | 55 | 212 |
| Sable tinted, i.e. fur all coloured. | 50 | 212 |
| Baum Marten, natural | 65 | 234 |
| Baum Marten, tinted | 45 | 234 |
| Stone Marten | 40 | 234 |
| Nutria | 27 | 314 |
| Musquash, natural | 37 | 314 |
| Musquash, water hairs removed, sheared and seal finished. | 33 | 314 |
| Skunk | 70 | 234 |
| Mink | 70 | 314 |
| Lynx, natural | 25 | 234 |
| Lynx, tinted black | 20 | 234 |
| Marmot, tinted | 10 | 3 |
| Fox, tinted black | 25 | 3 |
| Fox, tinted blue | 20 | 3 |
| Opossum | 37 | 3 |
| Otter (with water hairs) | 100 | 4 |
| Otter (water hairs removed) | 95 | 31516 |
| Beaver (water hairs cut level with fur) | 90 | 4 |
| Beaver (water hairs removed) | 85 | 31516 |
| Moleskin | 7 | 134 |
| Persian Lamb | 65 | 314 |
| Grey Lamb | 30 | 314 |
| Broadtail | 15 | 214 |
| Caracul Kid | 10 | 314 |
| Caracul Lamb | 15 | 314 |
| Squirrel | 25 | 134 |
| Hare | 5 | 134 |
| Rabbit | 5 | 214 |
Quantities of Fur needed, in Square Feet.
The “Paris Model” figure is the basis of these estimates for ladies’ garments,
the standard measurements being height 5 ft. 6 in., waist 23 in., bust 38 in.
| Sq. Ft. (approximate). | |
| Straight stole 12 length (just below the waist line) | 234 |
| Straight stole 34 length (just below the knee) | 334 |
| Stole, broad enough at the neck to cover the top of arm 34 length | 5 |
| The same, full length (to hem of skirt) | 6 |
| Eton jacket, without collar | 13 |
| Plain cape, 15 in. long | 612 |
| Deep cape, 30 in. long | 15 |
| Full cape with broad stole front, 34 length | 15 |
| Inverness cape (to knee) | 25 |
| Double-breasted, straight, semi-fitting coat, covering hips | 16 |
| Double-breasted sacque jacket, 36 in. long, full sleeves | 20 |
| Same, 30 in. long | 18 |
| Same, 22 in. long | 15 |
| Long, full, shawl cape with points at back and front, well below knee | 15 |
| Shorter shawl cape | 16 |
| Motoring or driving coat, 34 length | 22 |
| Motoring or driving coat, full length | 27 |
Weight and Durability of Furs for Men’s Coat Linings.
Otter with the water hairs removed, the strongest fur suited for
linings, is here taken as the standard.
| Points of Durability. | Weight in oz. per sq. ft. | |
| Otter (the water hairs removed) | 100 | 31516 |
| Beaver (the water hairs removed) | 90 | 31516 |
| Mink | 90 | 314 |
| Sealskin | 75 | 3 |
| Raccoon | 75 | 412 |
| Persian lamb or astrachan | 70 | 314 |
| Sable | 65 | 212 |
| Musquash | 55 | 312 |
| Nutria | 40 | 314 |
| Grey Opossum | 40 | 3 |
| Wallaby | 30 | 334 |
| Squirrel | 30 | 134 |
| Hamster | 15 | 114 |
| Rabbit | 10 | 214 |
Durability and Weight of Linings for Ladies’ Coats or Wraps.
Sable gills, the strongest fur suited for ladies’ linings, is taken as the standard.
| Points of Durability. | Weight in oz. per sq. ft. | |
| Sable gills | 100 | 278 |
| Sable | 85 | 212 |
| Sable paws | 64 | 158 |
| Ermine | 57 | 114 |
| Squirrel back | 50 | 134 |
| Squirrel heads | 36 | 212 |
| Squirrel lock | 21 | 1316 |
| Hamster | 10 | 114 |
| Rabbit | 7 | 214 |
Durability and Weight of Motoring Furs made up with Fur outside.
Otter with the water hairs, the strongest fur suited
motoring garments, is taken as the standard.
| Points of Durability. | Weight in oz. per sq. ft. | |
| Otter (with water hairs) | 100 | 4 |
| Sealskin, marble | 80 | 3 |
| ”Hair Sealskin” (tinted) with water hairs (a special variety of seal) | 75 | 314 |
| Raccoon | 65 | 412 |
| Russian Pony | 35 | 258 |
- ↑ Stout, old-fashioned boxcloth is almost the only cloth that (after a soft, heavy lining has been added to it) affords even two-thirds as much protection against cold as does fur. It weighs 4.273 oz. per sq. ft. more than the heaviest of coat-furs, and is so rigid as to be uncomfortable, while the subtileness of fur makes it “kind” to the body.
