Valladolid

Valladolid is a city in Castile and Leon in northern Spain, with a population of just over 300,000 in 2024. Much of it is modern and industrial but there's a concentration of sights in its medieval core.

Understand

Northern Spain became depopulated after the Moorish conquest circa 710 AD. When Christian rulers recaptured it in the 10th century, the towns were repopulated from further north, and there was a flurry of church-building to re-assert their culture. Valladolid acquired a university and was several times a royal seat; the town of Valladolid in Mexico was named for it in 1543 during one such spell. The last spell was from 1601 to 1606 before power moved definitively to Madrid. The city became industrial in the 19th century but remained based on the east bank of the Pisuerga river, so this is the historic core with the most sights. It only expanded onto the west bank from the 1960s.

Valladolid stands at 700 m on the Meseta Central, at the confluence of the Pisuerga and Esgueva rivers which feed the Duero, classic wine-growing country. The climate is dry, with daytime temperatures of 30°C in summer and 10°C in winter.

Tourist information is available online and from kiosks in Campo Grande park and by the railway station.

Get in

By plane

1 Valladolid Airport (VLL  ^IATA), C Adanero-Gijón, Villanubla, ☏ +34 913 211000. This has flights from Barcelona and Palma de Mallorca by Ryanair, and from Tenerife by Iberia. Few facilities here as footfall is low. The airport is 8 km northwest of downtown: Linecar bus runs three times a day to meet the flights, taking 30 min via Villanubla. (updated Jan 2025)

Madrid-Barajas (MAD ^IATA) is the best option for most travellers for its wide range of flights and good onward transport.

By train

2 Valladolid Campo Grande has two trains an hour from Madrid Chamartin, taking 65 min via Segovia Guiomar; three per day start from Alicante. Another 3 slow trains run from Madrid Principe Pio, taking 3 hours via El Escorial and Avila, then turning northeast through Burgos, Vitoria-Gasteiz and San Sebastian to Irun on the French border. From Barcelona you usually change in Madrid but one per day is direct via Zaragoza, Pamplona, Vitoria-Gasteiz and Burgos (8 hours), continuing to Salamanca. Four trains a day run from Santander via Palencia. Trains run every hour or two from Aviles via Oviedo, Léon and Palencia on their way into Madrid. Trains from Avila run every two hours and take 90 min. Campo Grande station is 1 km south of town centre. It's clean and modern, with buses and taxis outside.

Valladolid Universidad is a platform halt at the northeast edge of the city with trains every two hours from Palencia, heading for Campo Grande.

By bus

Alsa buses run hourly from Madrid Estancion Sur, taking 2 hr 30 min via Madrid Moncloa and Segovia. Every 2-3 hours, these start from Madrid Airport T4. Buses from Leon run every couple of hours, taking 2 hours. Avanza buses from Salamanca are every two hours, taking 90 min.

Inter-city buses make several stops in Valladolid, to terminate at Campo Grande railway station.

By road

From Madrid follow AP6 / 61 / 601 north west, 210 km via Segovia.

Burgos is 125 km north, León is 140 km northwest, and Salamanca 115 km southwest.

Get around

The city centre is compact and walkable, and has an e-bike scheme.

Auvasa buses have 20 daytime routes, and three late-night routes at weekends and public holidays.

There's a dozen taxi ranks, including the main railway station.

See

The lopsided cathedral, only half-built

• 1 Plaza Mayor is the pedestrianised main square, lined with cafes. It was built in 1562 and set the style for many similar squares in Spain and Latin America.
• Monastery of San Joaquín and Santa Ana, Plaza Santa Ana 4 (200 m west of Plaza Mayor), ☏ +34 983 357672. Su 11:00-14:00, M, W-Sa 11:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00. Museum of sacred art including works by Goya. Adult €4, child €3. (updated Jan 2025)
• 2 Cervantes Museum, Rastro, ☏ +34 983 308810. Tu-Su 09:30-15:00. Miguel de Cervantes (1547-1616) lived in Valladolid 1604-06 when it was the capital. In 1605 Part 1 of his best-known work Don Quixote was published, and soon translated into other languages - Shakespeare, whose dates of birth and death almost coincide, had an early copy. Cervantes moved to Madrid for his remaining years and only published Part 2 in 1613 after a fraudster had published a bogus version. His house is small and won't take long to see. Adult €3, conc or child €1.50, free on Su. (updated Jan 2025)
• 3 Valladolid Cathedral, Arribas 1, ☏ +34 983 304362. Valladolid was briefly the capital of Spain and work began on a humonguous cathedral in Renaissance style, but funding was cut in the 1560s when power and patronage moved to Madrid, so only half was built. Now titled as Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, it was consecrated in 1668. The ruins of its 13th century predecessor are adjacent north. (updated Jan 2025)
• Santa María La Antigua is the parish church just north of the cathedral and reckoned by many visitors to be more attractive, with its distinctive campanile. It was built in the 12th century, continually propped up and patched up since, and extensively restored in the early 20th century.
• Church of Vera Cruz 200 m northwest of the cathedral dates from 1581. It was under restoration in 2024 when it all came crashing down - these builders, eh? It's not yet known if reconstruction will be possible.
• Plaza de la Universidad is a fine square 50 m east of the cathedral, where the highlight is the ornate facade of the Law School.
• Pasaje Gutiérrez is an elegant shopping arcade 100 m south of the cathedral, between Fray Luis de León east and Castelai west.
• 4 Church of San Benito, San Benito 3. 24 hours. Church of a former Benedictine monastery, built early 16th century in Gothic style. It's now maintained by the Carmelites. (updated Jan 2025)

Jousting on Plaza Mayor

• City walls: gnarly stumps of the 12th century Alcázar defences are on Plaza de la Rinconada just south of San Benito church.
• Museo Patio Herreriano, Jorge Guillén 6, ☏ +34 983 362908. Tu-F 11:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00, Sa 11:00-20:00, Su 11:00-15:00. In the cloister of San Benito monastery just north of the church, this is a museum of Spanish art since 1918. Big names include Joan Miró and Salvador Dalí. Free. (updated Jan 2025)
• 5 Valladolid Museum, Plaza Fabio Nelli 1, ☏ +34 983 351389. Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00, Su 10:00-14:00. In a 19th century mansion, this mostly exhibits archaeology from prehistoric and Roman times, but the paintings cover Spain's golden age through to the 16th century. Adult €1. (updated Jan 2025)
• 6 National Sculpture Museum (Museo Nacional de Escultura), Cadenas de San Gregorio 1, ☏ +34 983 250375. Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00, 16:00-19:30, Su 10:00-14:00. Collection of religious sculpture and painting from 13th to 19th century: in Holy Week over 100 sculptures are loaned out to join processions. Palacio del Marqués de Villena is the annex across the street, housing exhibitions and an elaborate Neapolitan nativity tableau. Adult €3, conc or child €1.50, free on Sa evening & Su. (updated Jan 2025)
• Church of San Pablo, Plaza de San Pablo 4 (next to Sculpture Museum). Built from 1445, this was the church of a Dominican convent; future kings Philip II and Philip IV of Spain were baptised here. It has a grand florid facade. (updated Jan 2025)
• Zorrilla Museum, Fray Luis de Granada 1 (100 m south of sculpture museum), ☏ +34 983 426266. Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00, Su 10:00-14:00. José Zorrilla (1817-1893) was a poet and playwright who was born and grew up in Valladolid. He flunked law school and moved to Madrid where over ten years he produced most of his work - best-known is the play Don Juan Tenorio. He then drifted away to France and the Americas, writing little, and was a forgotten impoverished figure on his return to Spain. He was rediscovered late in life, showered with gold and gongs, and made the national Poet Laureate in 1889. His childhood house and garden form this museum, visited by guided tour. Free. (updated Jan 2025)

Cervantes Museum

• Academia de Caballería - the cavalry riding school - is lushly furnished and with artwork much too good for the horses. It's at Plaza de Zorilla and can be viewed by arrangement with the tourist office.
• 7 Church of San Martin and San Benito the Elder was built from 1276 and is now an exhibition space for the Sculpture Museum. It's at San Martín 10, in a neighbourhood of picturesque old streets.
• 8 Casa Museo Colón, C Colón, ☏ +34 983 291353. Tu-Su 10:00-14:00, 18:00-20:00. Exhibiting the life of Christopher Columbus (in Spanish: Cristóbal Colón), who made four transatlantic voyages from 1492-1504, the first European contact with the Caribbean and Central Americas. He was well rewarded, but was obsessed with claiming a slice of the huge wealth he'd brought to Spain, through slave-trading and other commerce. He followed the royal court hither and yon to pester them, and in 1506 this brought him to Valladolid where he died. His remains then embarked on a 300-year tour almost as far-flung as his lifetime journeys, taking in Hispaniola and possibly Cuba, until settling in Seville. Signage is only in Spanish. Adult €2. (updated Jan 2025)
• Palacio de Santa Cruz (200 m south of Museo Colón). Closed for repair. Renaissance palace housing a museum of African art. (updated Jan 2025)
• 9 Parque Campo Grande Is a bosky triangular park, bounded by Paseo Zorilla west, Acero de Recoletas east, and Paseo de Filipinos south.
• 10 Oriental Museum, Paseo de Filipinos 7, ☏ +34 983 306800. M-Sa 16:00-19:00, Su 10:00-14:00. Extensive collection of oriental arts, housed in Convento de los Agustinos Filipinos. Adult €5. (updated Jan 2025)
• 11 Science Museum, Av de Salamanca 59, ☏ +34 983 144300. Tu-Sa 10:00-18:00, Su 10:00-15:00. Child-friendly interactive museum. Adult €2, with planetarium €10. (updated Jan 2025)

Do

Parque del Campo Grande

• Cinema: Cine Casablanca is the most central, 300 m northeast of Plaza Mayor at Leopoldo Cano 8.

Cines Manhattan is at Cervantes 13, and Cines Manhattan at Paseo del Hospital Militar 34.

Seminci Film Festival is held over a week in October.

• Theatre: Teatro Zorilla is at Plaza Mayor 9.

Teatro Calderón is 200 m north of the cathedral at Angustias 1. Impro is just north at Alonso Berruguete 2.

Teatro Cervantes is at Sanctuario 22.

Teatro Carrión is 200 m south of Plaza Mayor at Montero Calvo 2.

• Football: Real Valladolid were promoted in 2024 and now play soccer in La Liga, the top tier. Their home ground Estadio José Zorrilla (capacity 27,800) is 2 km west of city centre.
• Rugby Union: Valladolid RAC and El Salvador both play 15-a-side in División de Honor de Rugby, Spain's top tier, at Estadio Pepe Rojo (capacity 5000) 4 km east of town.
• Plaza de Toros at Zorilla 49a still stages bullfights.
• Swimming pools: about a dozen, the most central is Henar Alonso-Pimentel at Plaza Biologo Jose Antonio Valverde. The water is cold and grungy, as required for any municipal pool.
• Golf: courses within a few km of the city are La Galera, Sotoverde, Entrepinos and Aldeamayor.

Events

Procession in Holy Week

• Semana Santa - Holy Week - is a series of processions and religious events in the lead-up to Easter.
• Fiesta de San Pedro Regalado is around 13 May, with folk music and dance honouring the city's patron saint.
• Conexión Valladolid is a three-day music festival in late June.
• Universijazz is a 3-day jazz festival in July organised by the university.
• Fiesta de la Virgen de San Lorenzo around 8 Sep involves eating, drinking and music of various genres.
• Tapas Festival in November challenges chefs worldwide to invent their own pinchos and tapas, made available in city cafes for a subsidised price. They've all got to be eaten, so your assistance however modest will be appreciated.

Buy

• Supermarket: Gadis is a chain with three central stores, at Fidel Recio 4, Esgueva 15 and San Quirce 3, all open M-Sa 09:00-21:00.

Carrefour, Mercadona and Alcampo are the other main chains.

Eat

Pasaje Gutierrez

• Local specialties are asado de lechazo (roast lamb), pan lechuguino (round flat loaf stamped with a rosette), mantecados de Portillo (sweet rusks), queso de Villalón (cheese) and rosquillas de sartén (waffles or doughnuts).
• Tapas are in cafes and bars everywhere, with a concentration on Plaza Mayor and the streets west. But in Valladolid tapas are not free, unlike other Spanish cities where they're ostensibly free but recouped in the price of drinks.
• Restaurante Santi (El Caballo de Troya), Correos 1 (short block west of Plaza Mayor), ☏ +34 983 339355. M-Sa 12:30-17:00, 20:30-00:30. Good trad fare at this restaurant / taverna. (updated Jan 2025)
• El Corcho at Correos 2 is an inexpensive authentic tapas bar, open daily 11:30-16:00, 19:30-23:30.
• Bar Zamora, Correos 5 (50 m west of Plaza Mayor), ☏ +34 983 330071. Th-Su 12:30-16:00, 19:30-23:30. Friendly tapas bar. (updated Jan 2025)
• Herbe nearby at Correos 6 gets mixed reviews.
• Vinotinto, Campanas 4 (50 m west of Plaza Mayor), ☏ +34 983 342291. M-Sa 12:30-16:30, 20:00-00:00, Su 12:30-16:30. Grilled steaks are the thing here. (updated Jan 2025)
• La Mejillonera at Pasión 5 specialises in mussels. It's open daily 13:00-16:00, 19:00-00:00.
• Los Zagales, Pasión 13 (100 m west of Plaza Mayor), ☏ +34 983 380892. daily 13:00-16:00, 20:00-00:00. Hybrid of tapas bar and restaurant. Service sometimes surly. (updated Jan 2025)
• Metanoia is South Indian, next to Los Zagales at Pasión 13, open Tu-Su 13:00-16:00, 20:00-23:00.
• Parrilla de San Lorenzo, Calle Pedro Niño 1 (within convent of San Joaquín y Santa Ana), ☏ +34 983 335088. Tu-Sa 13:30-16:00, 21:00-22:00, Su 13:30-16:00. Great reviews for this trad restaurant in the convent basement. (updated Jan 2025)

Drink

Academia Caballeria: art too good for the horses

• Wine: Valladolid is near several domains within Castilla y Leon region, notably Ribera del Duero, Cigales and Rueda. Wines are mostly red, of the Tempranillo type.
• Bars: the difference from tavernas and cafes isn't clear cut, but those emphasising the drink rather than tapas include La Lupe, Madame X, The Bowie, Kafka, La Central Rugby Bar, Shamrock Irish Bar, Valhalla, The Lost Child and Mordor Rock Bar.

Sleep

• Hostal Paris, Especería 2 (50 m northeast of Plaza Mayor), ☏ +34 983 370625. Comfy little place, inconspicuous and you need a passcode to get in. B&B double €90. (updated Jan 2025)
• Hotel Imperial, Peso 4 (100 m north of Plaza Mayor), ☏ +34 983 330300. Pleasant small hotel, central but quiet. B&B double €100. (updated Jan 2025)
• Hotel El Nogal, Conde Ansúrez 10 (200 m northeast of Plaza Mayor), ☏ +34 983 340333. Clean and spacious. B&B double €100. (updated Jan 2025)

Footbridge to the Science Museum

• 1 Hotel Mozart, Menéndez Pelayo 7, ☏ +34 983 297777. Small but comfy, very central. B&B double €100. (updated Jan 2025)
• 2 Hotel Recoletas, Acero de Rcoletas 13, ☏ +34 983 216200. Comfy place facing Campo Grande park. B&B double €90. (updated Jan 2025)
• 3 Hotel Zentral Parque, Paseo del Hospital Militar 17, ☏ +34 983 220000. Clean and friendly, midway between railway station and Plaza Mayor. B&B double €100. (updated Jan 2025)
• Hotel Felipe IV, Gamazo 16, ☏ +34 983 307000. Temporarily closed. (updated Jan 2025)
• 4 Hotel Silken Juan de Austria, Paseo de Zorrilla 108, ☏ +34 983 457475. Comfy, mixed reviews for service and catering. B&B double €100. (updated Jan 2025)
• 5 NH Bálago, Las Mieses 28, ☏ +34 983 363880. Clean but charmless place 1 km west of centre. B&B double €100. (updated Jan 2025)
• 6 Ciudad de Valladolid, Av Ramón Pradera 10-12 (1 km west of centre), ☏ +34 983 351111. Okay chain hotel close to shopping. B&B double €100. (updated Jan 2025)
• 7 Ibis Valladolid, Av del Euro 7, ☏ +34 983 362111. Good-enough Accor budget hotel in an industrial area 2 km north of centre. B&B double €60. (updated Jan 2025)
• 8 Hotel AC Santa Ana, La Flecha, ☏ +34 983 409920. Comfy mid-price hotel. It's in a humdrum residential area 5 km southwest of centre, near autovia and with secure parking. B&B double €250. (updated Jan 2025)
• 9 Lasa Sport, Rueda 187, ☏ +34 983 244454. Ageing hotel 5 km south of town but near autovia. B&B double €100. (updated Jan 2025)

Connect

As of Jan 2025, Valladolid and its approach roads have 5G from all Spanish carriers.

Go next

• Palencia (52 km north) is modern but with many interesting old buildings. This road continues to Burgos.
• Peñafiel (60 km east) has a wine museum and castle.
• Cuéllar (54 km southeast) has a charming old town centre with ramparts and castle. This road continues to Segovia.
• Olmedo (45 km south) has a theme park with miniature castles in Mudéjar style.
• Medina de Rioseco (40 km southwest) is a well-preserved old town. This road continues to Ávila.
• Salamanca (120 km southwest) is a historic university city.
• Zamora (100 km west) has kept much of its medieval walls.
• León (134 km northwest) has a grand cathedral, and a royal burial vault in the Church of San Isidoro.